Stucco Scratch Coat vs Brown Coat

There are a few difference between a stucco scratch coat and a brown coat. Even though these may contain similar ratios of cement to sand and are applied in the same way, they do have some distinct differences.

I have laid them out below to give you an idea of what these are in a side-by-side comparison style article. Hope you like it!

The Scratch Coat

The Brown Coat

Ingredients: A very simple recipe for a stucco scratch coat consists of 3 parts sand to 1 part plastic cement.

Lime and other things (additives) can also be added, but aren’t usually needed.

Here is a more detailed article on how to mix stucco and different recipes.

Ingredients: The ingredients are basically the same for the brown coat and a 3 part sand to one part cement ration can also be used.

In some instances, you could use a 4-1 ratio instead and the added sand will compact a little better and make for a nicer end result, when you float it off.

Characteristics: The surface is very rough with horizontal lines running through it which are made from a scarifier (aka scratcher) tool.

The scratch coat allows the next coat (brown) to be applied over it and the roughness provides a great mechanical bond, on top of the chemical bond that takes place as well.

Characteristics: The brown coat surface is much smoother than the scratch coat and is gritty to the touch but flatter and looks more appealing than the scratch.

This acts as an ideal base for the finish coat, which is integrally colored (in most cases) and is what you see on stucco, so the base needs to be uniform.

Stucco Scratch Coat 2
Stucco Brown Coat

Applied Over: Typically, the scratch coat is applied over lath (paper and wire fastened to wall) but can sometimes be applied to a cement based substrate like cmu block, bricks, etc.

Applied Over: The brown coat in the stucco process is applied over the scratch coat mostly but can also be applied over cement based substrates as well, like the scratch coat.

Scratch Coat Being Applied Over Lath
Applying Brown Coat Over Scratch Coat 2

Tools Used: The scratch can be applied with a hawk and trowel, or sprayed on.

A scratcher tool is used to make the horizontal lines in the cement base coat material, and a green float is used to clean up all the corners and grounds.

Tools Used: The brown coat can be applied using the same methods as the scratch coat. A darby is typically used to provide a consistent depth on the entire wall.

After that, a hard rubber float (neoprene) or green float is used to “float” the brown coat, compacting it.

Depth: The scratch coat is usually applied at a depth of about 3/8", which is typical for a 7/8" 3 coat stucco system depth.

This can vary, depending on a few different factors, but is still around that 3/8" depth, in most cases.

Depth: The brown coat is usually close to the same depth as the scratch coat but is usually slightly thicker, ranging from 3/8" to 1/2".

This is usually the case because a 3 coat stucco system is usually 7/8" thick overall, so you need to add the remaining depth to the scratch coat.

Cure Time: The scratch coat should be allowed to moist cure for a period of 2 to 5 days. This allows the cement to become hard enough to gain most of its strength before the brown coat is applied.

Most of the time, 2 days is the optimal cure time to maintain a chemical bond between the scratch coat and brown coat.

Cure Time: The brown coat requires more time to cure (7 to 28 days is recommended). 2 to 4 weeks is a more ideal cure time for the brown coat to harden and shrink, in most cases.

You want the scratch and brown to be fully cured before applying the finish coat to minimize cracking and ensure the greatest possible strength.

About Me Image
About the Author

The Stucco Guy

Ryan Retired Stucco Contractor

I’m Ryan, a longtime stucco contractor who has spent plenty of years getting dusty, chasing cracks, matching finishes, and figuring out what actually works in the real world. I created TheStuccoGuy.com to make stucco a little less confusing, help homeowners avoid expensive mistakes, and give you practical answers without all the fluff.

Take a look around, and if something still has you scratching your head, send me a question. I’m always happy to help.

Ask a Question About Me, Really?

Helpful next reads based on this article.

Leave a Comment:

30 comments
Mary Palmer says

Hi Ryan,
Building a greenhouse in Maryland. Opted out of masonry (stone or brick) for the 2 foot knee wall as would have liked due to the expense. Now there’s cement over CMU and builder wants to add colored stucco. Wants scratch or brown stucco or both? We want a gray to hide dirt, be reflective/bright and match cement pavers inside. The cement wall is off-white and likely to get v. Dirty! Wall is 885 sqft. He sees doing it on both sides so 1770 sq ft.
My questions:
1. Would a gray scratch be enough? One and done?
2. Would there be a problem with simply painting the cement with a marine gray?
3. Is there any R-value added with stucco?
4. You have discussed three layers but where does one find info about the 3rd?
5. Not a lot of stucco around Washington DC. Advice on finding a supplier? On-line?
6. Builder wants to get scratch coat and maybe brown coat as well at Whitecap ,because he thinks he will get useful info there? I see no info about 3rd coat on their site by my search and he is often disappointed by poor level of knowledge/expertise at retail level “these days.”
7. Already far over budget. I love our Builder’s penchant for quality/ process, but I feel he may be about to suck me dry. Into 401k funds now! Is he likely to come back with brown coat and we have to live it?? Seems headline no into executive decisions! Please advise how to get the most for the least or at least info references for acquisition for layer #3. Thanks so much! MEP

Reply
    The Stucco Guy says

    Hi Mary! Here’s a breakdown of your questions:

    Would a gray scratch coat be enough?
    A gray scratch coat can work as a single layer (but is referred to as a skim coat/brown coat over CMU blocks) if properly pigmented and textured, but it may lack the smoothness or finish quality of a full stucco system. It’s a cost-effective option but won’t look as polished as a finished coat.

    Can you just paint the cement?
    Painting the cement with a marine-grade gray paint is an option and a budget-friendly one. However, paint won’t offer the same durability or texture as stucco and may require more frequent maintenance.

    Does stucco add R-value?
    Traditional stucco doesn’t add much R-value. If insulation is a concern, you’d need to pair stucco with insulated foam board or another insulating layer.

    Info on the third layer?
    The third layer is typically the finish coat, which provides color and texture. Suppliers like Merlex or LaHabra may have pre-mixed finishes, or if your contractor is knowledgeable, they can make a custom mix.

    Finding stucco supplies in Washington, D.C.:
    For suppliers, White Cap is a solid choice, but also check out local masonry supply stores or online retailers for more options.

    Builder’s plan for White Cap:
    White Cap often stocks high-quality materials, but their staff knowledge can vary. If your builder prefers them, confirm they offer pigmented scratch or brown coats. Ask about finish coat options elsewhere if needed.

    Budget concerns and avoiding extra costs:
    If budget is tight, you could stick with a single coat (pigmented gray) and skip the brown coat/finish. This saves money but sacrifices some refinement. If your builder insists on quality, ask for clear quotes on the finish layer and shop around for materials to ensure fair pricing.

    Let me know if you’d like more clarification!

    Reply
Eric says

Should I add concrete bonder between the scratch, brown and finish coats

Reply
    The Stucco Guy says

    Hi Eric! Concrete bonder is usually not needed between the scratch, brown, and finish coats unless the surface has been painted or is overly smooth. Traditional stucco layers naturally bond as they cure. Thanks for the question—hope this helps!

    Reply
David says

Mike Giordano (YouTube) says the home owner must SATURATE the brown/scratch during curing to strengthen and allow the wall to breathe and shrink/crack before the final.

My stucco guys only hydrated the brown and scratch one time each. I’ve sprayed my walls 3 days so far, three days after the brown. Should I SATURATE the brown coat every day for 2 weeks before the final?

What say you? I need to be coached up. All I want is no future cracking (which I already see in the brown around my sliding patio window door)…..

Reply
    The Stucco Guy says

    Hello David, the more is slow cures, the better.

    Reply
Robert says

This info is a big help!! Thank you so much!

Reply
Arash Pashaei says

Very good information. Thank you.

Reply
Jonathan says

Thank you for the ideas!

Reply
Grant says

Thanks Ryan for your great help going to stucco are house wish us luck thanks Grant

Reply
Jack says

Wow this is awesome info, thanks. It’s hard to find anything on this as a DIYer.

Reply
John says

Very helpful

Reply
James says

The stucco on my house was installed 15 years ago. I have had an ongoing problem with the paint blistering, cracking, and falling off. I recently realized that there is no finish coat on the stucco. Only scratch and brown coats were applied before it was painted. Question: Do you think it is better to have all the paint stripped (chemical or sandblasted?) before applying a finish coat, or to re-lath the entire house and apply all three coats ? Any other ideas on how to solve?

Reply
    The Stucco Guy says

    It would be BEST to remove all paint and then apply a finish coat. That is the only way to guarantee future problems James. Unfortunately it can be quite labor intense which equates to a higher overall cost but if you can tackle the job yourself then you will save a lot of money.

    Reply
Anonymous says

Hello Ryan,

Live in west central Florida Building a new home. We asked a private inspector to look into the application of stucco. The inspector believes the contractor combined the scratch and brown coats into one application. Applied directly to lath for a wood construction on second floor. No cure between application. Because it was one application. He Said also they terminated the application on a “controlled brake”. Said thats a good thing. Eventually there is a finish coat applied and then painted.

Your thoughts on this practice ?

Thanks.
John G

Reply
    The Stucco Guy says

    Sounds like a more true version of a “one coat stucco system” without the use of foam, which does exist but is usually used on larger projects like hotels and commercial buildings for the reduced time to complete the project and for the reduced labor and material costs. The system is fine usually, if applied correctly but moist curing it before painting will be gretly recommended to strengthen the stucco and to help bring down the elevated PH levels prior to painting.

    Reply
Caroline says

Hi Ryan. We are removing 2 exterior doors and framing and stuccoing over them. Then we were going to lay some outdoor wall tile over a large area that will cover the new stucco. Would it be ok to just use the base coat, let it cure for 3-5 days and then lay the tile on and forget the brown coat?

Reply
    The Stucco Guy says

    If it is a nice scratch coat, then I would say, yes it is possible. Remember the brown coat is a much more “level” coat on the wall and the scratch coat can be done nicely and evenly, which would be ideal if you were going to go that route.

    Reply
Bob weiner says

My Dad was a plasterer. Considered a “mechanic”. Work was unmatched. Learned a few things from him. The union called for putting on a scratch coat of brown coat with enough to fill the slots in the wood lath or chicken wire (lath wire) and leave a thick layer that could be scratched for the 2 coat. When the 2nd Coat was ready as deemed my the foreman the 2nd coat and finally the finish coat. He chased me out of the union in 62 because he felt the trade was dying. Still like the quality of a finish coat of plaster than the way wall look like today in new homes.

Reply
Mai Lee says

Hi Ryan,

I just tumbled into your website. My house on the process of three coats stucco. As the scratch coat was dried out for two days without applying moist to it. Would it be alright for not moist the scratch coat?. When I touched I didn’t feel the sand left on my fingers as if with the brown coat. it has been dried out for three days but it seems not really dries out evenly. How come the brown coat has to wait much longer for it to dry out?. ( two weeks time).
Hope to hear from you soon.
Thank you so much.

__Mai

Reply
    The Stucco Guy says

    Hey Mai, it is going to be okay if there was no moist curing but the cement will usually not be as hard as it could have been. The extended cure time for the brown coat is to allow it to have more strength before putting on the finish coat and it will also allow the brown coat to crack, which will hopefully not telegraph through to the finish coat.

    Reply
Yaqui Coria says

Why do they call brown-coat “brown- coat” if its not brown?

Reply
    The Stucco Guy says

    Not really sure, Yaqui. Will have to look into that and get back to you!

    Reply
Robert says

Hi Ryan,

I just had the brown coat put on my house two days ago in Northern California.

There are places on the brown coat that are flaking and sandy, whereas most of the brown coat finish is smooth and not flaking. I did some searches on the web, and it was suggested that not enough mortar was put into the mix – Any opinion on this? I spoke with the contractor, and he states he uses one 94lb bag of cement and 25 shovels of sand. Is this ratio normal for brown and/or scratch?

Also, there are white streaks in several spots and fine white dots throughout the surface? I think this is effervescence – is this anything unexpected ?

Thanks for the great site, it has been very helpful.

Robert

Reply
    The Stucco Guy says

    Robert,

    That’s a tough one to answer without being there, seeing it in person. How big is the area that is flaking and sandy? I would also suspect not enough cement in the mixture on that particular spot (in between batches, last bit of a batch, etc.). The ratio is pretty typical in the field but I like to make my mixes a little richer (18 shovels of sand) for increased strength. Nothing unexpected, as far as you described though, hope this helps.

    Reply
Anonymous says

Thank uou for rhe clarification

Reply
Brack says

Any info on Santa Barbara finish?
Thanks

Reply
    The Stucco Guy says

    I will add it to my textures page, seeing as how it is so popular. Thanks Brack!

    Reply
Freddy says

It’s more like a question: Once the brown coat is applied, and you start to cure, how many days, and how many times a day, should you be hydrating the walls? I live in Southern California and it’s hot right now (80’s, 90’s).

Thank you!

F

Reply
    The Stucco Guy says

    Hey Freddy,

    I would recommend once in the morning and once in the evening, as a rule of thumb. In hotter weather, like you have three to five times a day would be nice if you have the time, hose length and patience! The more slowly the brown and scratch cures the harder it will get.

    Reply
Add Your Reply