Quick Resource Guide On Stucco Paper!

Stucco paper seems to be something that most people have a lot of questions about because there are so many terms associated with it like 10 minute, 60 minute, one ply, two ply, etc.

This is going to be more of a resource guide on what the differences are between the various stucco papers and which ones to use for what applications. This should clear up a lot of questions, if I present the information the right way, that is!

One Ply Versus Two Ply Paper:

There are two different rolls of paper that you can usually get and these are either a single ply or double ply paper. You can use either for stucco, providing that you meet the minimum code requirements.

Single Ply Stucco Paper: Single ply paper is usually not used a whole lot in the stucco industry because a double ply application will last much longer and is a much better option for a small additional cost.

There are certain codes that will allow you to use a single ply application of paper for stucco but typically this is a MINIMUM recommendation and not the best option.

If you do end up using a single ply of paper, you will usually use the thicker 60 minute paper, as the other (thinner) papers will not meet code requirements. Home Depot and Lowes will usually only carry single ply paper, from my personal experience.

You can use the single ply paper to achieve two plies but you will be working much harder than you would if you just used a roll that had two ply paper on it. You would be doing twice the work, essentially.

Two Ply Stucco Paper: Two ply paper is really the "industry standard" when it comes to stucco applications. The paper is sometimes tacked together in spots but can be separated if need be.

I have only been able to find two ply paper at my local stucco supply yard as it seems to be more of a specialty type of item that is not stocked in all hardware stores. You can find it at select Home Depot locations.

10 Minute Versus 60 Minute Stucco Paper:

Along with being able to choose from one ply or two ply stucco paper, you also have to choose a weight and these are usually signified in terms of minutes. The larger the number, the thicker the paper and the more water resistant it is.

Both the 10 min. and 60 min. paper is usually the "standard" at most material suppliers and Home Depot, Lowes, and local stucco suppliers will usually carry both types.

10 Minute Paper: 10 minute paper is the thinnest type of stucco paper used nowadays and is probably the easiest to use. It does tend to tear a little easier than a 60 minute paper so care must be taken when installing this paper.

60 Minute Paper: 60 minute paper is one of the thickest papers available and if using a two ply roll, it is very tear resistant and adds some serious water protection over a 10 minute paper.

Other Graded Papers:

It is important to note that there are options of paper weights that are available but these are typically more of a special order type of item. I do not know what the purpose of using these other papers would be other than simply bridging the gap between the 10 min. and 60 min. papers.

GMC paper is one brand that offers other weighted paper options. These are a 30 minute paper and a 60/30 minute paper (combination).

You can check out more information on GMC's website if your interested.

Can I Use Tyvek Instead?

​You can use Tyvek or Tyvek's Stucco Wrap products on stucco applications but you should not replace the stucco paper with it. Instead, it can be used underneath the stucco paper as another moisture barrier instead, for added protection.

What Is Grade D Paper?

​Grade D paper is basically just a simple term used to described an ashphalt saturated building paper, like the paper we are talking about. It does not specify whether it is one-ply or two-ply, it is just a standard description for a water resistant type of paper.

​Line Wire:

There is another product out there that has the paper and wire attached together and is commonly used for open stud applications, where there is no osb/plywood backing material to attach the stucco lath to.

The paper is a single ply paper (60 min) and is sewn together (in a sense) with a small diameter wire that is interwoven between the paper and the wire. I do want to note that I personally do not like this setup and believe that it is far more likely to develop leaks over a wall that has a plywood backing material installed and a two ply paper installed under the metal lath.

Popular Stucco Paper Brands:

​There are a couple of popular stucco paper brands out there that a lot of people know and trust and these will likely make it easier to find the specific products you are looking for. Some of the more popular brands of stucco paper include:

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About the Author

The Stucco Guy

Ryan Retired Stucco Contractor

I’m Ryan, a longtime stucco contractor who has spent plenty of years getting dusty, chasing cracks, matching finishes, and figuring out what actually works in the real world. I created TheStuccoGuy.com to make stucco a little less confusing, help homeowners avoid expensive mistakes, and give you practical answers without all the fluff.

Take a look around, and if something still has you scratching your head, send me a question. I’m always happy to help.

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3 comments
Jane says

Good morning! Thanks for informative ‘paper’ info!
Need cover on former board n batten , batten boards removed, some foiled brown paper remains! Might have 30# felt fragments THEN then covered with PINK asphalt fiber shingles, THEN covered with 70’s ‘masonite’ 4×8 primered panels, never painted, installed with 2 1/4″ rough galvanized nails MAYBE driven into something solid. Only insulation is RAT. 1×9″ boards uncovered are warped, cracked, missing … sooo remove to insulate or felt over as is, add furred wire and stucco? Need to basically weatherproof! Oh, 36″x72″ wood dbl sash windows were replaced with NAILED ON aluminum single sash storms, no caulk
Separate building … steel porch roof addition DECKED with chip/flaking osb, can it be covered with “high rim” “felt”, needs stucco? gonna flake off!
PS Im still learning more ways to be ripped off by ‘contractors! 🙂
Thanks sooo much
Jane

Reply
    The Stucco Guy says

    Good morning, Jane!

    You’ve got quite a project on your hands! Here’s how I’d approach it:

    For the walls, removing everything down to the studs is your best option. This allows you to properly insulate, replace damaged boards, and apply new weatherproofing layers (like 30# felt or house wrap). From there, you can install furred wire lath and apply stucco for a durable finish. Leaving the warped or cracked boards and layers of old materials will make it difficult to achieve a weatherproof and stable surface.

    For the porch roof, flaking OSB isn’t a great base. It’s best to replace it with new plywood or oriented strand board (OSB) if needed. Cover the new decking with a high-rib roofing felt or peel-and-stick underlayment for added protection, especially if you plan to stucco any part of it.

    With windows, ensure they’re properly sealed with caulking around the edges to prevent water intrusion, especially before adding stucco. It’s a small but critical step to avoid future leaks.

    I hear you on contractors—it’s always hit-and-miss, it seems these days. Let me know if you have more questions. You’re on the right track!

    Reply
Debbie Rosness says

Great article. It helped me to understand the meaning of the multiple words used in stucco videos. Thanks!

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