Stucco Sheathing

Sheathing is basically the “backing material” that can be found underneath the various layers of stucco that form the backing of residential and commercial buildings.

They can be made out of wood, cement, gypsum, fiberglass and other materials. Let’s take a deeper look at these different sheathing materials to get a better understanding of each of them.

Wood Sheathing:

This is the most common type of sheathing found on most residential applications these days and can come in two different forms:

OSB:

Short for (orientated strand board) is a man-made product that is constructed using adhesives and flakes of wood that are compressed in multiple layers.

This is an inexpensive product and is what most residential and commercial builds use, when wooden sheathing requirements are needed.

osb sheathing
  • Is usually around 3/8″-5/8″ thick for most stucco applications (unless noted by building plans, or county/state requirements)

  • Can be found at most large home improvement stores and is readily available

  • One of the cheapest sheathing options out there

  • Comes in 4′ by 8′ sheets typically

  • Additional links for OSB:
    1. Wikipedia
    2. HowStuffWorks.com
Plywood:

Is layers of thinner “veneer like” ply-woods that are glued together, alternating the grain of the wood that form a single solid sheet.

Ply wood is more expensive than OSB, but repels water a little bit better and provides a bit more strength too.

Plywood Sheathing

roseburg.com

  • Is usually around 3/8″-5/8″ thick for most stucco applications (unless noted by building plans, or county/state requirements)

  • Can be found at most large home improvement stores and is readily available

  • Moderately priced, but still competitive

  • Comes in 4′ by 8′ sheets typically

  • Helpful links on plywood:
    1. Wikipedia
    2. HowStuffWorks.com

Additional Notes: When using wood substrates, you should space the sheets about 1/8″ to allow for expansion if the sheets happen to get wet.

If you do not, then the sheets could potentially buckle and create cracking issues in the base coat(s) and/or finish coat of the stucco.

If installing new wooden substrate, you can use 16d nails to create an 1/8 of an inch gap on all plywood/OSB sheathing. If already installed with no gaps included, a skillsaw or router can be used to create the gaps by cutting down where the sheets meet.

Only gap if the manufacturer requires it, if not, follow their directions for proper installation.

When using wood substrates, you should space the sheets about 1/8″ to allow for expansion if the sheets happen to get wet. If you do not, then the sheets could potentially buckle and create cracking issues in the base coat(s) and/or finish coat of the stucco.

If installing new wooden substrate, you can use 16d nails to create an 1/8 of an inch gap on all plywood/OSB sheathing. If already installed with no gaps included, a skillsaw or router can be used to create the gaps by cutting down where the sheets meet. Only gap if the manufacturer requires it, if not, follow their directions for proper installation.

Exterior Gypsum Sheathing

This is basically an exterior grade drywall that is more commonly found in commercial projects, but can also be found in some residential applications as well. It has additive mixed into the base of it, which make it water-resistant and is coated with a water-resistant paper material as well.

Gypsum Sheathing

kuikenbrothers.com

  • Is usually found in 1/2″ – 5/8″ thick and comes in a 4′ by 8′ sheet, typically, but can also be found in 10 and 12′ lengths as well

  • Is more of a specialty item and is not typically found anywhere and everywhere
  • Is moderately priced

  • Make the installation process much faster, so it’s easier to achieve deadlines

  • More typical in commercial applications

  • A couple of related links:
    1. ASTM.org & ASTM.org
    2. Gypsum.org
  • Manufacturers of exterior gypsum and their websites:
    1. Georgia Pacific (Densglass)
    2. National Gypsum
    3. CertainTeed
    4. American Gypsum

  • Glass Mat Sheathing

    Similar to exterior gypsum board, but uses a fiberglass barrier instead of a paper product on the outside.

    Glass Mat Sheathing

    nelsonandaffiliates.com

    • Similar sizes to exterior gypsum

    • Is also a specialty item, but is usually found at most stucco supply yards or can be ordered

    • Is a bit pricey

    • More common in commercial applications

    • Helpful Links:
      1. Coming Soon!
    • Manufacturers of glass mat sheathing and their websites:
      1. Georgia Pacific (Densglass)
      2. USG
      3. CertainTeed
      4. National Gypsum

    Additional notes for gypsum and glass mat sheathing:

  • Both can be cut using a utility knife, just like you would if you were cutting interior drywall

  • Glass mat sheathing has fiberglass on the outer layers, which can irritate the skin, eyes and other parts of the body, so take the necessary precautions when handling or applying the material

  • They both are typically available in 1/2″ and 5/8″ thickness

  • They both carry a fire rating, which can help if building within close quarters of another structure (check manufacturer’s specs)

  • Cement Board

    Cement board is basically a mixture of cement and reinforcing fibers (fiberglass strands) that is formed into a sheet that can be attached to a wall easily, providing a great base for tile or other masonry products.

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    About the Author

    The Stucco Guy

    Ryan Retired Stucco Contractor

    I’m Ryan, a longtime stucco contractor who has spent plenty of years getting dusty, chasing cracks, matching finishes, and figuring out what actually works in the real world. I created TheStuccoGuy.com to make stucco a little less confusing, help homeowners avoid expensive mistakes, and give you practical answers without all the fluff.

    Take a look around, and if something still has you scratching your head, send me a question. I’m always happy to help.

    Leave a Comment:

    20 comments
    Dale says

    Could you use regular 1×6 or 1×8 as sheathing? We have access to reclaimed lumber that would be of little to no cost to us.

    Reply
      The Stucco Guy says

      Hi, Dale! Yes, you can certainly use regular 1×6 or 1×8 boards as sheathing for stucco. In fact, many older homes have had great success with this method. It’s important to remember to gap the boards slightly, as this allows for natural movement and expansion, which helps prevent future issues. Using reclaimed lumber sounds like a fantastic idea, especially if it’s cost-effective for you! Just be sure to check the condition of the wood to ensure it’s suitable for your project. If you have any other questions or need further assistance, feel free to ask!

      Reply
    Kevin says

    Hello Stucco Guy
    I have a question regarding substrates: There are now a number of Foam boards that are now on the market being used as Tile Substrates. Wedi, Schluter and goboard come to mind. They are all much easier to cut with a simple utility knife compared to plywood or Cement Board. Is it possible to use such products for exterior soffits with an applied stucco finish?

    Reply
      The Stucco Guy says

      That’s tough to say, Kevin. I have used exterior grade sheet rock and applied a thin base coat to that and then the finish coat over the base coat, but sheet rock is much denser. If you did try using these types of materials, I would go that same route to try to minimize the overall weight as much as possible.

      Reply
    Kathryn says

    We are fixing up an old storage structure (15’x20′) in the backyard to use it as an office/studio. Upon removing the drywall to add insulation we realized that there is no plywood or any type of sheathing. They attached paper, wire, then stucco. I guess this explains why there are so many holes in the stucco along the side of the structure that abuts the neighbors yard. Should we add sheathing and redo? We are trying to keep costs low….

    Reply
      The Stucco Guy says

      I would highly recommend adding sheathing to the open stud walls that are currently there. This will obviously not be the most cost efficient option, but would be a lot better to go this rioute.

      Reply
    Bill Reed says

    Do you need metal lathing under gypsum or cement board.

    Reply
      The Stucco Guy says

      Not typically, Bill.

      Reply
    Michael says

    Hi Ryan, I just learned my california 1980 condo doesn’t have sheathing under the stucco. Newer construction seems to use sheathing. Did code change to require sheathing and if so when? I’m considering a house built in 1994 and hoping it would have sheathing. Thanks!

    Reply
      The Stucco Guy says

      This is referred to as “open stud” Michael and I absolutely hate it! They still do this today and (unfortunately) it is okay to do so in most areas still.

      Reply
    Kate Stemmler says

    Awesome information which will help me start pricing out my addition. Thank you!

    Reply
    Gypsum Plastering says

    Thanks for sharing the blog regarding Gypsum Plywood, it was helpful to know about another type of Gypsum finish. We are one of the Interior designer with Gypsum plastering .

    by Kanish Plasters

    Reply
    Margaret says

    Hi Rick, it has been proposed to me that wire works as well as sheathing for back stucco. Do you disagrees?

    Reply
      The Stucco Guy says

      It works but not anywhere close to as good as osb or plywood.

      Reply
    Rick says

    I have a sheathing-related question: I’m building a deck and plan to put stucco arches and stone-covered columns around the perimeter to cover the structural framing and steel support columns. I’ve priced stucco work in our area, and it’s REALLY expensive, so I thought I’d like to try it myself. Our home is partly covered by an acrylic top-coat stucco system (two layers of paper over OSB sheathing, wire mesh, about 3/8″ to 1/2″ of cement/mortar, and a troweled on acrylic). I’d like to simplify this process (since I have no stucco skills) and do the following: 1) build the arches using 3/4″ exterior grade plywood over 2x framing; 2) waterproof the plywood surface with a liquid membrane and reinforcing fabric at corners and seams (and provide a vent on the under-deck side to allow any moisture to dry out); 3) apply an exterior grade 1/4″ cement board (like PermaBase; 4) treat edges, corners and seams with a thinset and appropriate mesh reinforcing tape; and 5) trowel on a sanded acrylic coating. Is this an acceptable approach? Thanks!

    Reply
      The Stucco Guy says

      Hello Rick!

      I would recommend hiring someone (just for liability reasons), so with that out of the way, I can give you my thoughts on the subject. Your method would work (in theory) with a few minor modifications.

      First, 1/2″ – 5/8″ sheathing is more than adequate and 3/4″ is overkill. To waterproof the sheathing, paper would work, but arches are very tricky to waterproof, the liquid membrane would work but needs to be applied evenly and correctly and mesh is a good idea for proper adhesion of the membrane at the corners. The waterproofing is the most critical part!

      After the cement board is on, use a mesh tape at all the joints/seams (spray adhesive will help here) and apply a waterproof base to the entire surface (at about 1/8″ in thickness), then let it dry. Lightly sand/knock down high spots/ridges, etc. and apply the acrylic top coat. Like I said before, I would recommend hiring a professional but don’t see why this wouldn’t work, although I can’t guarantee it.

      Reply
    Kurt says

    Can stucco be applied directly on a bricked house? What is the insulation effect of the different types of stucco? Thank you.

    Reply
      The Stucco Guy says

      Hey Kurt,

      Yes you can stucco over brick. The insulation properties for traditional stucco is not significant, but a one coat system has moderate insulating properties, due to the foam used in the lath. I know that some EIFS manufacturers offer products that have superior insulating properties, beyond the one coat system and are another option, depending on how far you want to go. Hope this helps.

      Reply
        todd tedesco says

        I am replacing windows in masonry openings. I have a few sills which require repair. Some need to be pitched, others have areas where the stucco is not bonding with the block.
        My plan is to chip all loose material from sill, establish 1/4″ pitch, and stucco.

        How do I handle the waterproofing of the sill? Will the elastomeric coating applied to the finished stucco suffice, or should I apply a membrane to the sill prior to stucco? Does the bonding agent provide waterproofing?

        Todd

        Reply
        The Stucco Guy says

        There are products that will waterproof the sill but relying solely on an elastomeric coating will probably fail, especially since it is a sill and will see rain? The bonding agent is not a waterproofer, just a bonder. Pictures would help out immensely!

        Reply
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